« Adrenaline-lovers of the Arctic Circle | Home | A Dirty Week in Spain »
Leaving La Vida Loca - Ibiza
By Joe | January 31, 2006
“Ibiza,” I suggested, idly flicking through a travel brochure at breakfast one morning.
“You’re not 18 now,” reminded Joy, my wife.
“It’s not just for ravers anymore,” I countered. “It’s for people like us – cool, calm and sophisticated.”
“Your sleeve’s in your Cocoa Puffs,” she said. I could see she was unconvinced.
It’s true that for the past two decades, Ibiza has been the unrivalled party zone for whistle-blowing ravers, but recently the floaty fashion set have been reclaiming the island as their own. Cool is replacing crazy; hippy is taking over from hedonistic; and head spinning club anthems are being turned down in favour of unplugged chillout sounds. The problem has been persuading the unconvinced, like Joy, that the new Ibiza has finally emerged. However, as a veteran Ibiza party-goer herself, she does display a certain amount of curiosity.
Reeling off the names of Ibiza aficionados seems to do the trick. If it’s good enough for Simon Le Bon, Jade Jagger and Elle MacPherson, she decides it’s good enough for the Cawley clan.
Three months later, we’re having a late breakfast at Restaurant Es Puet. Below us, S’Arenal Petit beach is alive with the squeals of excited children paddling in the turquoise waters. The mercury has already stretched to 27 and noon is still a good few coffees away yet.
We had chosen Portinatx primarily due to its isolation. At the very northern tip of the island, the area is famed for its beauty, and for its distance from the whistle-blowing ravers of the San Antonio superclubs.
Two days ago we had travelled from the airport across the interior of the island, through mind-altering scenery of citrus groves, dry stone walls and rolling hills – an instant antidote to flight-addled nerves caused by our two over-excited toddlers.
“What’s that smell?” asked Molly, our inquisitive 5-year-old.
“That’s Ibiza,” I said, as the warm breeze carried the fresh fragrance of pine and juniper through the open windows.
“I like it,” she said.
“So do I,” smiled Joy, whose last foray to this island had netted memories of strobe lights, sweaty dancers and coconut oil – and not much else.
Emerging from a fringe of lush greenery, the three beaches of Portinatx promise days of horizontal serenity with the added bonus of a refreshing dip in crystalline waters to reset the body temperature in preparation of another bout of serious snoozing. And not a nightclub in sight.
Of course, snoozing is the last thing that two pint-sized explorers had in mind. Thankfully, Portinatx is one of the safest bays in Ibiza and it wasn’t long before Molly and Sam set off to plunder the depths of the Mediterranean – well, two feet of it at least. Yesterday Joy and I had joined them. The rocky cradle in which the bay sits provides ideal conditions for diving and snorkelling. Carrying masks and tubes, we rented a pedalo for an hour and set off full steam ahead for a watery adventure. To be fair, it was possible to see the bottom of the sea even from the top of the pedalo slide but the latent Indiana Jones inside me surfaced and insisted that we got in-deep and personal. A shoal of sparkling mirror fish darted away as my size 10s propelled me forward. The vivid colours and perfect clarity provided an unforgettable experience and after several minutes I surfaced to swap tales with Joy.
“Did you see that barracuda?” I panted, “It was huge!” But Joy had seen nothing. Instead, she was floating on her back, gazing at the sun with her mask still in place.
“I don’t mind snorkelling,” she says, “I just don’t like seeing what’s beneath us.” Her logic was lost on me and I continued my exploration alone while Molly and Sam took turns plunging off the slide. Mentally, I crossed the glass-bottom boat cruise off our list of things to do.
Today the plan is to venture away from our base and take in some of the island’s sights – the natural aquarium Cap Blanc near San Antonio and the eerie cavern of Cova Santa near Sa Caleta; then back to Portinatx for some determined haggling at the Sunday hippy market.
But first, Vicente, the chef at Es Puet has his hands full trying to satisfy the insatiable appetite of 3-year-old Sam who has suddenly acquired a penchant for fresh squid, even at 11.30 in the morning. Still, this is Ibiza, an island where anything goes. Where life is chilled, cool rules and bohemian pleasures are all too available – even for a 3-year-old. Perhaps the Cawleys really are the models of Ibiza’s new breed of sophisticated pleasure seekers, I muse.
“You’ve got jam on your chin,” says Joy, putting that theory firmly back in the tin.
Find your place
West: San Antonio Town, San Antonio Bay and Cala Gracio
The west coast of Ibiza is arguably the most emblematic, with dramatic coastal walks, hidden coves and long sandy beaches. For the perfect sunset, park yourself near Es Vedra rock and prepare to be amazed.
The A-list clubs of Eden and Es Paradis in San Antonio Town might be the scene of frenetic dancing from June through September but visit outside the peak months and it’s a whole lot karma with excellent shopping and an unrivalled choice of great bars and restaurants. There’s a small beach at the edge of town, but for the best sandy playgrounds jump on a ferry and indulge in a spot of beach-hopping.
Twenty kilometres west, San Antonio Bay is the tonic to the Town’s summer excesses, replete with hidden coves and chillout bars aplenty. The main beach ticks all the right boxes for families – shallow waters for the junior waders, watersports for the fidgety and a barrage of shops and restaurants for non-sandy pursuits.
For a quieter alternative to park your beach towel, head to the tranquillity of Cala Gracio just a few kilometres north of San Antonio Town.
North: Puerto San Miguel and Portinatx
Shielded from the buzz of the main resorts by pine-clad mountains, Puerto San Miguel is a quiet and secluded hideaway ideal for solace-seeking couples and young families. Nearby attractions include the caves of Ca’n Marca, the sleepy village of San Miguel and Port Balansat, one of the best fish restaurants on the whole island.
Portinatx was used as the setting for the film, South Pacific. That surely tells you something about its beauty. With three beaches, plenty of shops, bars and restaurants and a buzzing nightlife, this well-known beauty spot appeals to families of all ages.
East: Santa Eulalia, Cala Llonga, Es Cana and Cala Nova
Ibiza’s third largest town lies on the Balearic’s only river – though don’t expect flowing torrents! With a touch of bohemia, an overriding Spanish ambience and more dining venues than you can shake a knife and fork at (don’t miss Calle Vincent, nicknamed tapas street), Santa Eulalia is for those who favour the pace of pavement café’s over throbbing beats-per-minute. The two golden beaches are backed by a promenade, a perfect setting for a pre-aperitif stroll.
Cala Llonga is also more chill than thrill. A long, thin bay is gilded with a beautiful beach backed by lush pine groves. The shallow waters are perfect for young kids; the proximity to the island’s only golf course at Roca Llisa, a bonus for clubbers. The countryside surrounding Cala Llonga is definitely some of the most scenic on the island and exploring on horseback is highly recommended.
Built around a small harbour, Es Cana is livelier than its eastern counterparts, though by no means a dance-till-dawn destination. Popular with families, the gently curving beach is one of the safest on the island for toddlers. The famous hippy market is one of its assets and the availability of a ferry service to Ibiza Town, Santa Eulalia and Formentera a fast and convenient way to see more of the island. If you like walking, there are several trails along the breathtaking coastline.
For more water-based activities head a little further north to Cala Nova where the sea is a little more choppy but the facilities are some of the best on the island.
South-east: Playa d’en Bossa and Figueretas
‘Lively’, sums up Playa d’en Bossa, though the dizzying choice of nightlife venues is by no means the sum total. Stretching for 2.5 kilometres, its palm-studded beach is the longest on the island and the launch pad for 1,001 watersports (well, not quite, but there’s certainly plenty). The nearby water park and regular bus service to Ibiza Town provide distractions away from the golden sand. This is the resort for those who like their days active and their nights long.
If you find there’s not enough elbow room at Playa d’en Bossa, go park your beach towel at Figueretas five minutes up the road by car. This small town draws and international crowd of all ages.
Formentera
Smallest of the Balearics
Four kilometres from Ibiza at its closest point lies the smallest island in the Balearics clan. Formentera’s azure blue waters and white sand beaches draw unsurprising comparisons with the Caribbean. Playa Migjorn is the biggest beach in the archipelago, spanning five kilometres and with a surfeit of facilities. If you’ve ever had Robinson Crusoe aspirations, the ultimate chillout island is the place to realise those dreams.
Fact file
Prices
The currency is the Euro, which at the time of writing converts to 66p. Expect to pay anything from €6 (£4) upwards for a three-course meal with house wine, €2.50 (£1.65) for a bottle of beer, €4 (£2.65) for a bottle of wine, and €1.50 (£1) for a white coffee - less if you venture away from the resorts.
Food and drink
If you like fish you can’t go wrong on Ibiza. Try Burrida de Ratjada, skate with almonds and breadcrumbs, or Tonyina al Eivissenca, tuna with pine nuts, eggs and white wine.
Away from the seafood, sample Safrit Payes, a chicken and goat hotpot, or some of the many varieties of spicy sausages.
For a tipple, sangria is available everywhere. Many bars concoct there own Hierbas, herb-based spirits that deliver a potent punch.
Getting around
There are plenty of options for getting from A to B, including car hire. The local bus network is generally efficient and relatively cheap. An admirable addition is the summer ‘disco bus’ service providing transport to all the main clubs during the night. Taxis provide a more conventional – and somewhat quieter- alternative. Shoreline ferries transport beachgoers from one sandy stretch to another.
Shopping
Bag a bohemian bargain at one of the island’s hippy markets. The best are at Punta Arabi in Es Cana (Wednesday) and Las Dalias near San Carlos (Saturday). For fashions, take your credit card for a night time excursion in the old quarter of Ibiza Town where many shops stay open till way after midnight. If you’re wondering what to take back as souvenirs, handmade leather goods, Lladro figurines and locally-designed fashions are the answer.
Days out
To turn up the chill factor another notch, take the hour-long, slow ferry to neighbouring Formentera. Alternatively, charter a boat to discover some of the island’s hidden coves and quays.
Ibiza is only 45 kilometres long and 25 kilometres wide so it’s easy to take in much of the island in one day on a jeep tour.
Major events and festivals
From June through October the island is awash with ‘events’. Although the vast majority involve dance-floors and decibels, there are other less frenetic activities that take place at regular intervals, such as the Senona de Moda in June where the latest in Ad Lib fashions are paraded over seven days. Also in June (23/24) the festival of Saint Joan lights up the sky with bonfires and fireworks. The Ibiza and Formentera International Film Festival draws a host of celluloid stars from May 29 to June 7.
Health
No jabs or specific immunisation are needed for Ibiza. Don’t forget mosquito repellent to keep the pesky bloodsuckers at bay and a high SPF sun cream to avoid that truly British lobster look.
Brief history
700 BC: Phoenicians take to the shores of Ibiza
654 BC: Carthaginians colonise the island
146 BC: Romans take the helm
426 AD: Vandals from North Africa arrive
535: The Byzantine’s turn to rule
902: The Moors move in
1235: Catalans claim the island
1662: Black plague kills huge number of islanders
1958: Ibiza airport opened to commercial flights
1960’s: Hippy invasion
Useful guidebooks
AA Essential Ibiza & Formentera (£5.99)
Ibiza and Formentera (Rough Guides Directions) by Iain Stewart (£6.99)
Ibiza and Formentera (Globetrotter Travel Pack) by Sue Bryant (£7.99)
Resort Secrets Ibiza (Deck of Secrets) by Chris Elwell-Sutton (£4.99)
Tourist office
Calle Antoni Riquer, 2, Ibiza Town
+34 971 301900
oitport@cief.es
Topics: Writing Clips |